I am no expert mechanic, so I appreciate the ideas - keep 'em coming. Hard to believe that the trike would run great, and then a month later, will not start at all due to valves not being adjusted correctly. The only thing I haven't checked this time is the valve adjustment. Not sure I can tell a "strong" spark from a weak one, but it is not intermittent. The new plug is gapped properly - 0.65mm. Yes, it is CDI ignition and the plug gets wet after 8-10 pulls. Check the plug gap.Īnd like mentioned before, make sure the valves are adjusted properly to spec. May not need a new plug.clean the plug with brake cleaner and a fine wire brush, and use some 800 to 1000 grit sandpaper to clean up the gap surfaces between the electrode and electrode tip. This may be a dumb question, but I assume it's CDI ignition and not points? Strong consistent spark, or intermittent? Plug gets "wet"? Getting too much fuel as it is.I would check the carb, clean thoroughly again, checking pilot jet.etc.
#1981 honda atc 185 cdi key generator
In this case I would diagnose the problem as having too great of an air gap between the pulse generator and rotor and issues with the target it is "non-running", the for sale price should be really good.wish you were close by! Sometimes everything will test out ok and you can still have an issue. I have checked over a few days and I have consistent spark so I think this issue is resolved. I tested for spark with the new pulse generator and rotor and YES I HAVE SPARK. I tested for continuity (good), resistance (25 ohms), and voltage at the pulse generator and it was about. 015” and the target surfaces were in better shape. So I changed out the pulse generator and rotor and installed another set out of a 200ES. The surface of the rotor was also a little pitted and not as pronounced in the target area as compared to another rotor I had from an 84 200ES.
The pulse generator metal pickup strip was a little chewed up and the wiring going to the black box looked a little suspect. I went back to the pulse generator to take a closer look. It was dirty and I had to clean it and also it was at the high end of the tolerance for the air gap. The only part that I altered was the pulse generator. I stopped and thought about this for a while. I decided to now check continuity of all the wires related to the ignition system thinking there may be a break or short somewhere under the electrical tape. Now I had spark for the first few revolutions but then it was gone. I thought I would have found a failed component by now. 7 volts AC and so I moved on.Ĭonclusion: So far everything checked out which surprised me. Use the electric start to turn the motor over and check the voltage. Continuity was good and resistance was about 27 ohms so I left the test leads on and switched the multimeter to read AC voltage. I disconnected the two wires and hooked one test lead to the blue and yellow wire and the other to the green wire coming from the pulse generator. Next I checked the continuity of the pulse generator. The air gap was close to the max range of. I rotated the motor to the “F” mark on the flywheel to line up the rotor and pickup and checked the gap with some feeler gauges. The wiring for the pickup where it entered the box looked a little frayed. They needed to be cleaned and looked a little beat up (rotor and pulse generator surfaces). Next I checked the rotor surface and the pulse generator surfaces.
Pulse generator: For this I do a visual of the assembly and check that the advance assembly is working by manually turning it.
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